The Deluxe Frame


Frame Spec:

L Frame
Toptube: 20.7" / Chainstay length: 13.75" / Headtube Angle: 74 degrees / BB Height: 11.5" / double butted 4130 Chromoly / heat-treated BB / heat-treated 4mm dropouts / heat-treated integral headtube / angled U-brake lugs & cable guides / 2.08kg / 4.56lb

XL Frame
Toptube: 21" / Chainstay length: 13.75" / Headtube Angle: 74 degrees / BB Height: 11.5" / double butted 4130 Chromoly / heat-treated BB / heat-treated 4mm dropouts / heat-treated integral headtube / angled U-brake lugs & cable guides / 2.14kg / 4.7lb

Colours are Casselberry Red, Gloss Clearcoat, Frog Brown, and Trans Black.

Frame Info:

Built for going fast. Simplicity is what we're aiming for here - no wishbones, no crimps, no harsh bends on the seatstays or chainstays, no front triangle gussets, and no rear stay bridges that have been laser-cut to resemble intricate metalwork pieces: and of course, all made from proper 4130 chromoly. 4130 chromoly is the stuff we've been making BMX frames from for decades, refined and produced into a high quality tubeset and expertly welded by our preferred frame builder.

We chose lighter, slightly slimmer diameter tubing while retaining all-important strength and durability - and combined plain-gauge rear ends with double-butted front end and heat-treated bottom bracket, headtube, and dropouts. We didn't go nuts and drill holes or laser-cut slots everywhere, we kept everything sensible and designed it properly - and ended up with a durable trails machine. Proportion wise, we didn't go too low-slung - otherwise, that could look like a bicycle trials frame.

Our frames come in two sizes - L and XL: the L comes with a 20.7-inch toptube, while the XL measures in at 21 inches. Both have 13.75-inch back ends. We then chose a low 11.5 inch bottom bracket, to create a frame with a low centre of gravity and a very stable and balanced feel - which is vital when you're hitting the Bar End's Back Line at mach ten. Nobody wants a skittish high bottom bracket or a flatland-frame back end in that situation.

Likewise, we picked a traditional 74 degree head angle - something that's a little more stable than some of today's street frames which measure 75 or even 76. A steep head angle is all good when you're nose-wheeling the curb outside Lidl, but not when you're hitting big lines.

We specced small round tubes to act as neat rear-stay bridges, and then paid attention to the brake mounts. For one, they're placed on the chainstays so the brakes actually work better and they look cleaner - our lowered chainstay position combined with today's modern u-brakes create more room, so running 25:9 gearing will be no problem. We then angled the brake-lugs (at 81 degrees) and the cable stop to ensure good cable line.

The dropouts are super-light - we trimmed down the shape, slotted them for 14mm axles, and also made them 4mm thin. I wouldn't recommend using pegs on these dropouts, but who does? Since my favourite street riders (Steven Hamilton and Ian Schwartz) don't even run pegs, shedding unnecessary material here made sense. Also, instead of running angle-capped stays like every other BMX frame out there, we took a little influence from classic road bikes and dome-ended the stays - it makes them just look faster. Neat.

Stable, fast, light, durable, classic - it's all we wanted in a BMX frame.



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